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Against the backdrop of Bonnieux and the Luberon, the Chef Noël Berard at La Bastide in the Capelongue Hotel talks to us about his career path and the Provence terroirs that inspire him every day.
Against the backdrop of Bonnieux and the Luberon, the Chef Noël Berard at La Bastide in the Capelongue Hotel talks to us about his career path and the Provence terroirs that inspire him every day.
To me, it seems a little over the top to speak of a culinary ethos. I take a more relaxed approach to my profession, by taking a step back from an often overhyped world which we must at all costs find meaning in, tell a story about, or even politicise certain approaches. In my view, there’s always a kind of abstractness in cuisine, whether it’s in the thinking or the doing. Here at Capelongue, perched atop Bonnieux, my inspiration is simple: the Luberon region and surrounding areas. In a nutshell, this place. It’s nothing groundbreaking, but it’s essential for any chef who wants to create something in harmony with their environment and elevate the terroir.
To me, it seems a little over the top to speak of a culinary ethos. I take a more relaxed approach to my profession, by taking a step back from an often overhyped world which we must at all costs find meaning in, tell a story about, or even politicise certain approaches. In my view, there’s always a kind of abstractness in cuisine, whether it’s in the thinking or the doing. Here at Capelongue, perched atop Bonnieux, my inspiration is simple: the Luberon region and surrounding areas. In a nutshell, this place. It’s nothing groundbreaking, but it’s essential for any chef who wants to create something in harmony with their environment and elevate the terroir.
Inspiration often comes from just looking out at the village of Bonnieux and the landscapes of the Luberon and thinking about seasonal products. It’s that initial spark, which then turns into brainstorming with Méric, my second in command, Thomas, our pastry Chef, and other members of the team. Next comes the implementation, a process that can take several hours or even days... the time needed to fully express an idea.
Inspiration often comes from just looking out at the village of Bonnieux and the landscapes of the Luberon and thinking about seasonal products. It’s that initial spark, which then turns into brainstorming with Méric, my second in command, Thomas, our pastry Chef, and other members of the team. Next comes the implementation, a process that can take several hours or even days... the time needed to fully express an idea.
I don’t just have one favourite, there are several. Each time we manage to combine flavours in just the right way, in tune with our region, it’s hugely satisfying. In particular, I’m thinking about snail, carrot and bottarga with pastis beurre blanc, or Sisteron lamb roasted with lavender honey, as well as our black olive ice cream and textures of chocolate.
I don’t just have one favourite, there are several. Each time we manage to combine flavours in just the right way, in tune with our region, it’s hugely satisfying. In particular, I’m thinking about snail, carrot and bottarga with pastis beurre blanc, or Sisteron lamb roasted with lavender honey, as well as our black olive ice cream and textures of chocolate.
Green asparagus, most definitely. They are delicious, in so many ways.
Green asparagus, most definitely. They are delicious, in so many ways.
At La Bastide, we have two great menus, which have been conceived to closely reflect seasonality and the terroir at a precise moment. The concept, plating and quantities vary based on each course, whether it’s a cold starter or a meat dish. These elements guide our thinking and help us to achieve the desired balance on each plate.
At La Bastide, we have two great menus, which have been conceived to closely reflect seasonality and the terroir at a precise moment. The concept, plating and quantities vary based on each course, whether it’s a cold starter or a meat dish. These elements guide our thinking and help us to achieve the desired balance on each plate.
Dinner is a meal I really enjoy as I don’t have much of an appetite during the day. What I prepare depends on what is in the fridge. It can be a grilled cheese sandwich, a rice dish or stir-fried Asian-style noodles, with a few vegetables.
Dinner is a meal I really enjoy as I don’t have much of an appetite during the day. What I prepare depends on what is in the fridge. It can be a grilled cheese sandwich, a rice dish or stir-fried Asian-style noodles, with a few vegetables.
After repeating a year at secondary school in Paris, where I’m originally from, I was struggling to find my path, so I chose to do a catering apprenticeship. I started with an upper-secondary vocational certificate (BEP), spending two years at the gourmet restaurant L’Amandier in Antony, followed by a professional baccalaureate at the French Senate. It was there that I had the opportunity to rub shoulders with chefs recognised as some of the “Meilleurs Ouvriers de France” and contenders for the Bocuse d’Or, which made me all the more determined to strive for excellence throughout my career. I then moved to Reims in the Champagne region, to work at the two Michelin star Les Crayères with Philippe Mille, where I stayed for three and a half years. My longing to learn English led me to Hong Kong, where I stayed for almost five years. At first, I worked at the two Michelin star Amber, and then I accompanied chef Maxime Gilbert on his adventure to open his first restaurant, Écriture, which earned two Michelin stars after just seven months. I then felt the urge to return to France so, after a brief three-month stint at Petit Nice (three stars), I joined Édouard Loubet at La Bastide in Capelongue (two stars). Today, under the name of La Bastide, we are eager to keep this gourmet destination’s light shining brightly.
After repeating a year at secondary school in Paris, where I’m originally from, I was struggling to find my path, so I chose to do a catering apprenticeship. I started with an upper-secondary vocational certificate (BEP), spending two years at the gourmet restaurant L’Amandier in Antony, followed by a professional baccalaureate at the French Senate. It was there that I had the opportunity to rub shoulders with chefs recognised as some of the “Meilleurs Ouvriers de France” and contenders for the Bocuse d’Or, which made me all the more determined to strive for excellence throughout my career. I then moved to Reims in the Champagne region, to work at the two Michelin star Les Crayères with Philippe Mille, where I stayed for three and a half years. My longing to learn English led me to Hong Kong, where I stayed for almost five years. At first, I worked at the two Michelin star Amber, and then I accompanied chef Maxime Gilbert on his adventure to open his first restaurant, Écriture, which earned two Michelin stars after just seven months. I then felt the urge to return to France so, after a brief three-month stint at Petit Nice (three stars), I joined Édouard Loubet at La Bastide in Capelongue (two stars). Today, under the name of La Bastide, we are eager to keep this gourmet destination’s light shining brightly.
I don’t have a signature dish; instead there are products or key characteristics that I like and that regularly feature on our menus, like Sisteron lamb, olives, bottarga, aromatic herbs...
I don’t have a signature dish; instead there are products or key characteristics that I like and that regularly feature on our menus, like Sisteron lamb, olives, bottarga, aromatic herbs...
My cuisine in two words:
Honest and tasty.
Cooking for friends:
When I have friends over, I like to cook traditional sharing dishes, like cabbage stuffed with rice pilaf or mashed potato.
A menu to showcase French cuisine:
I would suggest turbot fillet with a simple sauce bonne femme, followed by a frangipane galette for dessert.
If you could only eat one food for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Rice.
Which ingredient couldn’t you go without?
I confess it would be butter.
If you yourself were an ingredient, which one would you be and why?
A mushroom, because I like picking and eating them, and I love being in the forest.
Which is your favourite word in the culinary dictionary?
The Maillard reaction. It summarises the work we do every day: knowing how to bring out the taste and flavour of a product through cooking.
Are you a night owl or an early bird?
A night owl.
How would you describe your profession in one phrase?
We have the opportunity to do the most fundamental thing for human beings: feed ourselves. I think it’s an incredible asset, while being both simple and essential.
Sea, countryside or mountain?
Countryside. I like the sea and mountains to remain holiday destinations.
What’s your favourite travel destination and your dream destination?
Asia overall, and New Zealand.
If your cuisine were a book, which would it be?
A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle.
One word to finish on:
Treat yourself and your friends and loved ones.
My cuisine in two words: Honest and tasty.
Cooking for friends: When I have friends over, I like to cook traditional sharing dishes, like cabbage stuffed with rice pilaf or mashed potato.
A menu to showcase French cuisine: I would suggest turbot fillet with a simple sauce bonne femme, followed by a frangipane galette for dessert.
If you could only eat one food for the rest of your life, what would it be? Rice.
Which ingredient couldn’t you go without? I confess it would be butter.
If you yourself were an ingredient, which one would you be and why? A mushroom, because I like picking and eating them, and I love being in the forest.
Which is your favourite word in the culinary dictionary? The Maillard reaction. It summarises the work we do every day: knowing how to bring out the taste and flavour of a product through cooking.
Are you a night owl or an early bird? A night owl.
How would you describe your profession in one phrase? We have the opportunity to do the most fundamental thing for human beings: feed ourselves. I think it’s an incredible asset, while being both simple and essential.
Sea, countryside or mountain? Countryside. I like the sea and mountains to remain holiday destinations.
What’s your favourite travel destination and your dream destination? Asia overall, and New Zealand.
If your cuisine were a book, which would it be? A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle.
One word to finish on: Treat yourself and your friends and loved ones.
